AmaCello on board the first day

At approximately 11 a.m. this morning, a shuttle bus driver loaded our luggage after we spent the night at the Spalentor Hotel in Basel and we cruisers climbed on board trusting he planned to drop us off at the Rhine River where the AmaCello is moored until tomorrow morning. Not! He drove us to the Basel International Airport - and then, turned around after some guidance from Jim Fleming to get us to the cruise ship.

It's a lovely day in Basel - sunny and quite warm. Mostly we have lounged around on the top deck. The multi-cultural crew treats us like royalty. In a few minutes, all passengers will report to the main dining room for a mandatory meeting about how to use life jackets and other important cruise information. Dinner is at 7.

A few iPhone photos from our first day on board the AmaCello:

Hotel Spalentor to AmaCello April 17

After a delicious German style breakfast served at the Hotel Spalentor, our bus driver loaded our luggage and transported us to the AmaCello, our home for the next week. The trip was somewhat roundabout as the Bucher Travel Agency told the bus driver to take us to Basel International Airport. Once the driver learned where us Wisconsinites were really supposed to be dropped off, we arrived without a hitch.

Our rooms on the AmaCello were not ready until around 3 p.m. and we got to the ship before lunch. The public areas were open to us and we enjoyed lunch on the outdoor section of the boat. It was a lovely sunny day.

After we checked into our rooms, we rested a bit and had dinner in the main dining room. We chose the Chef's suggestion and had a tasty beef roast with wine and appetizers and dessert.

Some photos are attached:

April 16 - Basel via Amsterdam from Chicago

Blog post at approximately 4:30 p.m. Wednesday, April 17: these photos taken earlier today are being uploaded to this Rhine River Cruise blog. Our group spends a part of today and one night at the Hotel Spalentor on Schonbeinstrasse, Basel, Switzerland. It's a lovely place to be even though the weather today - sunny and brusque.

Koln (Cologne) Germany

Cologne ("Köln" in German) is an urban Jacuzzi that keeps the Rhine churning. It's home to Germany's greatest Gothic cathedral, one of the country's best collections of Roman artifacts, a world-class art museum, and a healthy dose of German urban playfulness. (Rick Steves)

Cologne's population: 1,022,627

Average High Temperature: 67 (around April 21)

Low: 43

2014 Easter week-end

April 18:  Good Friday (Karfreitag)

April 20–21:  Easter Sunday and Monday (Ostersonntag and Ostermontag)

Easter - this event has lost its religious significance for many Germans and has taken on a largely commercial form, with shops cashing in on chocolate eggs and toys. The Cologne Cathedral however hosts religious services commemorating the crucifixion and the resurrection of Christ on both Good Friday and Easter Monday respectively

THINGS TO DO IN COLOGNE:

Climb the 500+ steps up the cathedral towers

The Cologne 'Dom'

The Dom is one of the largest churches in Europe and its twin towers dominate the landscape. A heart pounding climb up will reward you with amazing views on a clear day of the city and beyond. The cathedral is also well worth a visit with beautiful stained glass windows.
Thanks to its spiritual and cultural meaning, Cologne Cathedral became a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1996.

Have a beer in Koln
Now the good people of Cologne are very particular about their beers and the brew houses and bier kellers of the old town are a great way to enjoy the light Kolsch beer, unique to Cologne and some hearty food in the historic beer halls.
 Visit the Chocolate Museum

The ‘Schokolade’ museum will educate about everything to do with cocoa and chocolate and you can enjoy tasting freshly made chocolate in the factory while taking in views of the Rhine. http://www.chocolatemuseum-cologne.com

http://www.germany-tourism.co.uk

Old town

Cologne's Old Town

This part of the city has been preserved and restored and contains a number of interesting churches, small museums and bier kellers among its cobbled streets. Well worth checking out is the Romano Germanische Museum with ancient roman relics found during excavations in the city.

World class modern art
The Museum Ludwig is next door to the cathedral and is home to a world class collection of modern art including works by Andy Warhol and many pop art pieces. Fresh exhibitions are held every few months and it’s well worth spending a half day exploring the exhibits on show. There is also a cool café in the lobby which often hosts live music while you eat and drink. http://www.museenkoeln.de/

Shopping
The city has an excellent selection of shops, from well know German department stores such as Peek & Cloppenburg, Karstadt and Galleria Kaufhof to international brands as well as local speciality boutiques, art and antique shops. The main area is pedestrianised, ending in a series of arcades, this then continues out towards the Hansaring past Neumarkt with a large number of designer boutiques and shops unique to the city. You can buy all manner of goods including the original Cologne fragrance the city is best known for.
Take a trip out of the city and visit Phantasialand

One of the stomach churning rides at Phantasialand

An easy trip by train and bus will bring you to one of Germany’s largest theme parks.  Lots of fun for all ages and plenty of places to eat and drink as well as some gut churning rides.http://www.phantasialand.de

Hire a bike or use a bike from AMA Waterways
Rent a bicycle and pedal your way all over the city, through the parks, along the river, out to the zoo and beyond. You can even take them with you on the excellent tram and train service to get out of the city and explore the countryside around Cologne. The tourist office next to the main railway station, or the main booking office in the station itself, can give you some ideas for half or full days trips of hiking and biking.

COLOGNE AND WORLD WAR II

In World War II, the city center of Cologne was leveled by bombings; the Cathedral was the only building that survived. Standing tall in an otherwise flattened city, some said it was divine intervention; a more matter-of-fact explanation is that the Cathedral of Cologne was a point of orientation for the pilots.

The cathedral suffered 14 hits by World War II aerial bombs but did not collapse and reconstruction was completed in 1956. In the northwest tower's base, an emergency repair carried out with bad-quality brickstones taken from a nearby war ruin remained visible until the late 1990s as a reminder of the War, but then it was decided to reconstruct this section according to the original appearance. It is possible to climb a spiral staircase to a viewing platform about 98 metres above the ground.

MORE ABOUT THE KOLN CATHEDRAL:

Dedicated to the saints Peter and Mary, Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) is the seat of the Catholic Archbishop of Cologne. Cologne Cathedral is the greatest Gothic cathedral in Germany and has been Cologne's most famous landmark for centuries. Once the tallest building in the world, Cologne Cathedral still boasts theworld's largest church façade.

The cathedral's main treasure is a golden reliquary containing the remains of theThree Magi of Christmas story fame. These relics and other treasures have made Cologne Cathedral a major pilgrimage destination for centuries.

WHAT TO SEE IN THE CATHEDRAL:

Inside, the most celebrated work of art in the cathedral is the Sarcophagus of the Magi, a large gilded sarcophagus dating to around 1200. The largest reliquary in the western world, the exterior is seven feet of gilded silver and jewels. Images of Old Testament prophets line the bottom and the 12 apostles decorate the top. Inside, the reliquary holds three golden-crowned skulls believed to belong to the Three Magi.

These relics were acquired by Cologne in the 12th century and put the city on the pilgrimage map. Cologne Cathedral is still an important stop for modern pilgrims. 

In the Sacrament Chapel is the Madonna of Milan (Mailänder Madonna), an elegant wooden sculpture depicting Mary and the child Jesus. Made in the Cologne Cathedral workshop around 1290, this High Gothic statue is associated with miracles and has attracted pilgrims for centuries. It is probably a replacement for an even older statue, which was brought to Cologne with the relics of the Three Magi by Rainald von Dassel and destroyed in the fire of 1248.

Another important statue of the Virgin Mary, which attracts the most attention from today's pilgrims and worshippers, is the miracle-working Jeweled Madonna in the north transept. Only the heads of the Virgin and Child can be seen; the remainder of the statue is dressed in a gown of white silk (last renewed in 1991) pinned with jewels and other ex-votos. The sculpture is Baroque and dates from the late 17th century.

The choir is surrounded by 13th and 14th century art: carved oak stalls, frescoed walls, painted statues and stained glass. The Treasury, outside the cathedral's left transept, is housed in the cathedral's 13th-century stone-cellar vaults. The six dim rooms contain a variety of glittering chalices, crosses, and reliquaries, plus fine examples of bishops' garb.

The construction of the Cologne Cathedral began in 1248, in order to house the precious relict "Shrine of the Three Holy Kings". It took over 600 years to complete the Cathedral, and when it was finished in 1880, it was still true to the original plans.

Cologne is home to Ford Motor Company's European headquarters 

Rudesheim will host a Harley Davidson festival - 19 - 22 June 2014

 Magic Bike Rüdesheim

One of Europe’s biggest Harley Davidson rallies attracts thousands of bikers from around the world to the Upper Middle Rhine Valley world heritage region. It includes a programme of entertainment and other events, plus spectacular firework. www.magic-bike-ruedesheim.com

Harley enthusiasts on this cruise may choose to return for this rally.

OTHER INFORMATION ABOUT RUDESHEIM:

Population: 9,788 (in 2009)

Average Temperature third week in April: High 57

                                                                   Low 40's

Rudesheim, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located at the southern entrance to the Lorelei Valley. This wine-making town on the right bank of the Rhine has some of the finest wines of this district. The town is the home of Asbach Uralt Brandy and one of the signature beverages to sample in Rudesheim is: Rudesheimer Kaffee, a flaming coffee drink. Asbach Uralt brandy, in the coffee, is set on fire.

After you sample Rudesheimer Kaffee, you can purchase a souvenir boxed set that includes special ceramic cups and saucers and extra long spoons that allow you to stir your flaming coffee without getting burned.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN RUDESHEIMER:

1. Niederwalddenkmal: A monument constructed to commemorate the foundation of the German Empire at the end of the Franco-Prussian War represents the union of all Germans. The first stone was laid in 1871 by Wilhelm I. The monument was inaugurated on September 28, 1882.

This monument is located on the right bank of the Rhine on a hill. Vineyards lead up to it. You can reach the monument by gondola or by walking paths.

This monument depicts Germania wielding an imperial sword and holding a shield that sometimes has the image of a black eagle on a gold field. Each part of this monument is symbolic. 

Broken chains symbolize being free

Her breastplate with an eagle is a symbol of the strength of the German empire

The oak leaf crown represents heroism

The sword stands for power and the hemp branch around the sword shows a willingness to make peace

A black, red, and gold tricolor flag is the flag of the 1848 liberal nationalist party, a party that had been banned by the dukes of the German state 

Rays of a rising sun demonstrate the beginning of a new era

2. Drosselgasse (means 'choke alley') Approximately 3/4 miles long, this pedestrian lane in Old Town features beautifully decorated restaurants that feature live bands and DJs day and night in the summer. Winestubes and open-air taverns serve beer and wine as well as locally distilled brandies along the Drosselgasse. This part of old town is Rudesheim's most famous tourist attraction and is usually busy. It has been rebuilt after bombing in WWII destroyed most of this area. You can buy Christmas ornaments year round.

3. Bromserburg This castle, built in the 10th century is a wine museum. A collection of wine presses and other wine-making paraphenalia are displayed. The castle has walls that are two meters thick and displays 1,000 year history of wine-making. This castle is the oldest castle in the Rhine River Gorge. Reisling grapes grow around it.

4. Asbach Distillery Premium German brandy has been distilled here since 1892

5. Eagles Niederwald Founded in 1968 by Kai Gilles, Eagles Niederwald treats injured birds of prey and owls. These kings of the sky are released once their health has been restored

6. Rudesheim Toy Museum One hundred years worth of children's toys commemorated. A 20th century model railroad fills an entire room. The model train travels from Rudesheim to Koblenz

7. Siegfriede Mechanistics Musikkabinett Four centuries of self-playing music and instruments includes self-playing stringed instruments and the Hupfeld Violina Orchestra and more

8. Mittelalterliches Follermuseum Torture museum - instruments of torture 

9. Remains of the Heindenburg Bruche The bridge was destroyed during the Second World War- Allied bombing, November 1, 1944

10. Ebingen Abbey Founded by Hildegard von Bingen, Benedicton nuns dedicated to a life of work and prayer live here. It is a place for quiet contemplation. You may hear the nuns singing (you won't see them, though) and you can visit the abbey gift shop which features finely made crafts.

Known as the 'Sybil of the Rhine,' Hildegard von Bingen (1098 -1179) had a vision of what she called living light as a child. She kept this vision secret for many years. At the age of 42 and seven months, Hildegard wrote SCRIVAS (know the word of the Lord). Hildegard von Bingen wrote: "How wonderful is the knowledge of God's heart, the image every creature has beheld. For God, as he looked into the face of man, saw all his work as a whole in human form. How wonderful is the wind that stirred people to life."

In addition to her contemplative writing, Hildegard wrote treatises about natural history and medicinal uses of plants, animals, trees, and stones. She was also a composer and she may be the first woman to write positively about sexual relations especially for women. 

Today, the general agreement is that she has migraines and that the visions she described were the result of what she experienced.

The Nazis expelled nuns from Ebingen Abbey in 1941. They returned in 1945.

Heidelburg stop

Did you know Rick Steves advises tourists to skip Heidelberg because it's too 'touristy?' Maybe we can assume visiting Yellowstone or Grand Canyon is a bad idea because they are too 'touristy.'

Heidelberg, population in 2012 at 149,633, is considered one of the most beautiful cities in all of Germany. Click on this link to access a photo:  http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/media/97528/Heidelberg-Castle-with-the-Old-Bridge-in-the-foreground-in?topicId=259532 Even though Heidelberg may be a tourist town, plan to experience the beauty and history of this city.

AVERAGE TEMPERATURE in April: High - 60's Low - 40's

A bit of trivia (for Harry Potter fans): Heidelberg is the home of a professional Quidditch team.
The oldest intact public library in Germany is found in Heidelberg.

Almond and fig trees grow in Heidelberg, among the warmest German regions, in the country. Also, you may encounter a wild population of African rose-winged parakeets which can survive in Heidelberg.

Sites you can visit in Heidelberg in addition to the parakeets and trees:

Go to:
the Royal Wine Cellar where the biggest wine barrel in the world is located. Made from 130 oak trees, this barrel measures 7 meters (22.9 feet) wide, and 8 meters, (26 and 1/4') and holds approximately 221,725 quarts of wine.

Philosopher's Way (Philosophen Weg), a path that overlooks Heidelberg's 'Old Town,' will take you along a trail that leads to a park dedicated to the poet, Friederich Holderin - Thingskatte -  a now overgrown amphitheater built by the Nazi Party in the 1930's, and the ruins of St. Michael's Monastery (Michaelkoster). Friederich Holderin's poetry has been set to music by many composers - Brahms, for example, set these lines to music:
"Ye wander gladly in light

Though goodly mansion dwellers in Spiritland!"

Heidelberg Castle, a mix of styles from Gothic to Renaissance, is located on Mt. Koenigstuhl.  A Heidelberg Castle Festival takes place every summer here. The castle was struck by lightening in 1764.

Old Town (Hauptstrasse -  main street) for pedestrians only is one mile long. One of the longest shopping streets in Germany. Check out the old apothecary.

Old Stone Bridge was opened in 1788

Karls Gate (Karlstor), opened in 1781

Church of the Holy Spirit (Heileiggeist Kirche)

HEIDELBERG - WORLD WAR II:

From 1933 - 1945, Heidelberg was a stronghold for the Nazi Party. As early as 1933 a purge of non-Aryan professors began at the university. They were forced out. By 1940 most of the Jewish population had been deported and few survived.

In 1933, the Nazis built Thingstatte to host Nazi and SS events. Many Wehrmacht soldiers are buried here. The city was not bombed during the war; many speculate that Americans spared the city from bombing because the US Army planned to set up its headquarters in this beautiful city. Also, Heidelberg was not an industrial hub.

As the Wehrmacht departed from Heidelberg on March 29, 1945, they destroyed three arches on the "old bridge." The Third Infantry, Seventh Army, US, entered the city on March 30, 1945 and the civilian population surrendered peacefully. The university, which had been closed, reopened in 1945.

On December 9, 1945, General George Patton was injured in a car accident in Mannheim; he was brought to the US Army Hospital in Heidelberg for treatment. General Patton died at the hospital on December 21, 1945. A funeral at Christkirche in Heidelberg was followed by the general's burial in Luxembourg.

US Armed Forces has used Heidelberg as its headquarters since 1945. By 2015, the US Army will move from Heidelberg to Weisbaden. The barracks and housing areas will be handed back to the Germans.

Speyer has a basketball team --- BIS BASKETE

Speyer, located on the main European traffic routes along the Rhine between Basel, Switzerland and Mainz, Germany, has ideal river banks. They are high enough to prevent flooding and yet, river going vessels can dock close to the shore.

Temperatures in April: highs in the low 60's. Lows: high 40's - low 50's

HISTORY: The Romans captured Gaul in 50 BC and the Rhine became the border for the Roman Empire.

1061: Consecration of the Speyer Cathedral, the largest Romanesque church of its time. The Speyer Cathedral became the burial place for eight German emperors and kings. Today, it remains the largest Romanesque church.

WW II: The Nazis seized the city in 1933. For a few centuries, Speyer accepted a large Jewish population; it was considered a safe haven. However, in 1938, Kristallnacht, the Speyer synagogue was burned. The Jewish population was expelled and most were killed.

Speyer escaped most WW II bombing, though one bomb did destroy the train station. The German Army was headquartered in Speyer and as they retreated from the city, they blew up the bridge over the Rhine. The American Army took the city.

THINGS TO SEE:
The Main City Gate (built in the 13th century), one of Germany's tallest. Climb it for a view of Speyer's old town.

Speyer Cathedral: Constructed from stone, this cathedral has no stained glass windows. The cathedral has four towers. It took 80 years to complete this cathedral which is 133 meters long. You can visit the crypts of the eight German emperors and kings while you're there.

Speyer Technik Museum: This museum has a collection of airplanes, classic cars, locomotives, fire engines, a German U-9 submarine and a Russian An-22 transport plane that you can enter and explore.

Jewish Ritual Bath which was built before 1128.

Historical Museum of the Palatinate: View the Golden Hat of Schifferstadt. This thimble shaped artifact from the Bronze Age is covered with gold. The museum has the oldest unopened wine bottle in the world (dated from the 3rd century).

SPRING FAIR while we're on the Rhine: From April 10 - 21, 2014 - food stands, rides and more

Kings Square Market is open on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays

Strolling through the city, you will find boutiques, department stores, restaurants.....

You can also pick up maps for urban hikes.

Koblenz - another stop on the cruise

Koblenz: Germany's most beautiful corner!
Where the Rhine and Mosel Rivers meet to create a fascinating landscape. The Romans named this city, Castellum aped Confluentes (Castle at the Confluence of Rivers).

Population: 106,000
Koblenz is 57 miles southeast of Cologne by train

Koblenz has a truly European history. The Franks captured the city; German princes chose the town as their residence; the French conquered it and the Prussians fortified it. 

Koblenz served as a World War II command post for the German Army. To view the destruction of the city, access this link to 1945 You Tube video of USA 87th Armoured Division in Koblenz:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWyy58dHQ0E

The city, bombed heavily, has been restored.

THINGS TO DO AND SEE IN KOBLENZ TODAY:

In 2002,  the Rhine Gorge was named a World Heritage Site and Koblenz marks the northern end of this site. The World Heritage Site covers 67 kilometers (about 40 miles) and ends at Koblenz.

This site captures the epitome of Rhine Romance and is the most beautiful section of the Rhine. Over 40 castles, mansions, and fortresses line the river. You can walk along the Rhine in this area and stop along the way to sample regional wines of which Reisling is the star.

The World Heritage Rose: Magic of Lorelei might be encountered on your walk. If you don't want to walk, you can shop!

SHOPPING in KOBLENZ: Go to the historic center. Surrounded by history, you can shop at St. Florins Market (Florinxmarkt), move on to Muntzplatz (Old Mint Square), and make your way to Jesuit's Square (Jesuitenplatz).

Jesuitenplatz features a variety of pubs, restaurants, and winestubs. Queen Victoria and Thomas Jefferson enjoyed some of the local food including DeppeKooche, grated potatoes, bacon, and onion casserole - to be enjoyed with a dry reisling.

If you see a sign: Strau Burtschraft, it means that it's a winery or a winegrower's cottage that offers homemade food and wine. Give it a try.

Strasbourg

Take your camera to Strasbourg (spelled Strasburg too)

Strasbourg means: "town at the crossing of the roads"

With a population of 759,868, Strasbourg ranks as the 9th largest French city. Most residents speak German. You will enjoy the best of French and German cuisine in Strasbourg.

The  City Center (Grande Isle) became a World Heritage Site in  1988. (Named by UNESCO)

Strasbourg serves as the seat of the Central Commission for Navigation of the Rhine. It is also the home of the International Institute of Human Rights. It is the official seat of the European Parliament.

Strasbourg has been the bridge of unity between France and Germany. The long-standing University of Strasbourg has allowed the coexistence of Catholic and Protestant cultures through the centuries.

The Port of Strasbourg is the second larger on the Rhine. (The largest port is found at Diusberg, Germany.

AVERAGE TEMPERATURES IN APRIL: High = 60 degrees
                                                                          Low = 41 degrees

BRIEF HISTORY OF STRASBOURG: The Celts permanently settled Strasbourg in 1300 BC; however, human occupation can be traced back 600,000 years.

Gutenberg created the first moveable press in Strasbourg and the first modern newspaper was published here in 1605.

Marcel Marceau, the actor and mime, was born in Strasbourg.

WORLD WAR II:

September 1, 1939, Germany invaded Poland.
September 3, 1939, France and England declared war against Germany. Once France and England declared war, the entire city of Strasbourg was evacuated (120,000 residents) and the city stood empty for 10 months. The Wehrmacht arrived to a city devoid of civilians in mid-June 1940.

Allied bombing of the city began in 1943 and Strasbourg was liberated by the Second French Armoured Division on November 23, 1944.

THINGS TO DO IN STRASBOURG: (lots) A few are highlighted in this blog:

The historic city center (World Heritage Site) 'Petite France' 'old town' of Strasbourg - You will enjoy the architecture, quaint cafes, gift shops, and rub elbows with residents and tourists in this vibrant and beautiful area.

Cathedrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg for a couple of hundred years was the tallest building in all of Europe. Built from pink sandstone, an astronomical clock is inside the church. If you want exercise, climb the 332 steps to the top for a spectacular view of the Black Forest and mountains.

Musee Alsacien contains exhibits of life in Strasbourg 1400 through 1900. The visit takes 1 - 2 hours.

Parc de l'Orangerie has a free zoo and mini-farm.

European Parliament where EU summits are held

A unique opportunity: through December 2013 at the Strasbourg Archeological Museum: "News from the Eastern Front! Great War Archeological Finds in Alsace and Lorraine." (costs 6 euros - reduced price 3 euros)

SAMPLE  THE FOOD (German and French) and Alsacian wines (mainly white):
Gewurtztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Tokay Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Reisling, Sylvaner
Most common beer: Kronenbourg

About the Rhine a 'mash-up' of Internet links about the River (including Rick Steves)

While the Rhine is over 800 miles long, the 36-mile stretch from Mainz to Koblenz is by far the most interesting. And that's what we're exploring. It's no coincidence that the great medieval sights of Europe lay along important trading routes like the Rhine. It took big money to build the structures we travelers would marvel at centuries later.

Since ancient times, the Rhine has been one of the world's busiest rivers and this region's major trading route. Today there's a steady flow of barges with thousand-ton loads, while busy train tracks and highways line both banks — all under the watchful eye of once-mighty castles.

Many of the castles were "robber-baron" castles, extortion stops — built by petty princes and two-bit rulers — back when there were 350 independent little states in what is today Germany.

HISTORY OF RHINE FROM MAINZ TO KOBLENZ:

In the Middle Ages, emperors, popes, and princes all jockeyed for power in Europe. In Germany, the emperor ruled the princes. But in the 11th century, the pope asserted his power over the emperor. After that, the little German princes ran wild and built all these castles. That's why most Rhine castles date from this era. A couple hundred years later, when the emperor began reasserting his control, these castles saw action.

While the castles survived these battles, most were destroyed later by the French because they feared a strong Germany and they felt the Rhine was the logical border between the two countries. In the Romantic Age — the late 1800s — medieval things were in vogue, and many of the ruins were rebuilt. Today the Rhine castles are enjoyed as restaurants, hotels, hostels, and museums.

And travelers cruise the river... just to castle-watch.

THE HAZARDS OF THE RHINE:

The powerful Rhine has long been treacherous to navigate. Boats generally pass on the right. Since downstream ships can't stop or maneuver as freely, upstream boats are expected to do the tricky do-si-do work. Large triangular signals, posted before troublesome blind bends in the river, warn of oncoming ships.

Each triangle covers a segment of the bend — the lowest triangle being nearest. They warn of approaching ships. If the bottom side of a triangle is lit, that sector is empty. But if the left side is lit, there's an oncoming ship in that sector.

The most dangerous bend in the river swings around a rocky bluff called the Loreley. Because of reefs just upstream, many ships never made it safely past the Loreley — and the rocky cliff remains steeped in myth.

Sailors blamed their misfortune on a Fräulein — so wundarbar — whose long blonde hair almost covered her body. This legendary siren flirted and sang her distracting song from this rock.

Rhine River

---

RIVER Origins

The Rhine River , whose name comes from the Celtic word renos, meaning raging flow, begins at the Rheinwaldhorn Glacier in the Swiss Alps and flows north and east approximately 820 miles (1,320 km). The glacier is located northeast across the mountains from the town of Andermatt. 

The Rhine begins as a tumultuous Alpine stream churning through deep gorges, and although the river's flow is moderated somewhat as it passes through the Lake of Constance (Bodensee), the river remains a torrent westward to Basel. Just south of Chur, Switzerland, the Hinter Rhine, flowing northwesternly from the glacier, joins the Voder Rhine streaming from Lake Tuma, to form the Rhine proper at Reichenau. The river then flows north to Lake Constance and west through Schaffhausen to Basel, Switzerland. Near Schaffhausen it plunges 23 m (75 ft) over a spectacular waterfall, the Rheinfall.

At Basel the river turns north and enters the Rhine Graben, a flat-floored rift valley lying between the Vosges Mountains on the west and the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) on the east. Strasbourg, France, a focal point for merging water routes from the Paris Basin, is located at the valley's northern extremity. Along its course from Bingen to Bonn is a beautiful stretch of the Rhine Valley. The river has cut the deep, steepsided Rhine Gorge through the Rhineland Plateau and the Rhenish Slate Mountains. 

This picturesque gorge, with terraced vineyards and castle-lined cliffs, has often been called the "heroic Rhine," renowned in history and romantic literature. It is complete with fairy tale castles and vineyards snuggled in the overhanging rock face, known as the Mittelrhein. The river flows past Bonn, Germany and becomes the Lower Rhine and emerges onto the North German Plain before it empties into the North Sea. 

The Rhine is navigable from the North Sea to Basel, Switzerland, a distance of some 500 miles (some 800 km). Eighty percent of it's ship-carrying waters pass through Germany. The entire distance can not support ocean going vessels and they must end their journey in Cologne, Germany. From there cargo must go by barges.

Some of the main tributaries are: the Mosselle (Mosel), that runs south west bordering Luxembourg and on into France; the Neckar that flows south east at Manneheim on through Heidelburg, Germany; the Main, flowing east and south from Mainz through Frankfurt, Germany. The principal rivers of Western Europe, including the Seine, Elbe, Ems, Rhône, and Saône, are linked to it by canals. East of Frankfurt is where The Rhine-Main-Danube Canal links the Rhine with the Danube River, providing a transcontinental route from the North Sea to the Black Sea near Odessa, Ukraine.

History

Germanic tribes settled on either side of the lower Rhine. Julius Caesar bridged and crossed it in 53 and 55 BC. The Germanias were formed on the north and the Roman empire to the south and east. When the Western Roman Empire disintegrated around 400 AD, the Rhine was crossed along its entire length by Germanic tribes and formed the central backbone first of the Kingdom of the Franks and then of the Carolingian Empire. 

In 870, the Rhine again became the central axis of a political unit; the Holy Roman Empire. Over time, fighting and political events disintegrated this empire along the Rhine. Even with the fighting and changing hands of frontiers, a goal to connect the North Sea to the Black Sea had existed. 

In 1832, the first steam boat came from the North Sea all the way to Basel. Mannheim was an established port by 1840, and heavily travelled during the industrial revolution. In 1846 the Ludwig-Donau-Canal was completed after nine years of work, named after King Ludwig I of Bavaria.

The Prussian armies in the Franco-German War of 1870-71 took Alsace from France ending France's Rhine frontier. France regained control after World War I and built the fortified defensive system of the Maginot Line from 1927 through 1936. The line joined the French bank of the Rhine from the Swiss border at Lauterbourg. The opposing Siegfried Line was built on the German bank from the Swiss border to near Karlsruhe from 1936 through 1939. World War , trains, and ships caused flooding because of blockades.

After World War II the struggle for possession of the Rhine had been superseded by a trend toward economic and even political union of the rival countries.

Vineyard Agriculture on the Rhine

Most of Germany's vineyards owe their existence to the Rhine River. The Pfalz , on the east facing slopes on the Haardt Mountains is the most southerly of these Rhine wine regions. Next comes the Rheinhessen with it's finest vineyard sites around the Neirstein on the so-called Rheinfront or Rheinterrasse. North of Mainz, the Rhine meets the mass of the Taunus Mountains and is forced west along a short stretch between Weisbaden and Assmannshausen. 

At Bingen, the Nahe River flows in and along its banks some of the best south-facing vineyards are located. North of Bonn is the tiny river Ahr, which is a tourist spot with its own vineyards. All of these German regions produce different styles of wine, but in general, Rhine wine is fuller and richer then Mosel wines. As in the Mosel, the primary grape is the Reisling, but other varieties include a a few Weissburgunder (pinot blanc) and some Chardonnay.

Tourism

The castles, a feature of the Rhine landscape, were founded by feudal lords, who built them to protect their lands from marauders. Besides the warlike function for which they were built, think about the back-breaking labor of the feudal serfs, whom must have been forcibly employed in quarring the huge stone blocks and dragging them up the mountain slopes. 

Lorelei and other legends
The mid-Rhine, known for its German legends - one of the best known is the story of the Lorelei. A nymph lived in the Lorelei rock high above the Rhine. She lured fishermen to their destruction with her singing until she was overcome with love and plunged to her own death. A bronze statue of the nymph overlooks the river. 
Another famous landmark is the "Drachenfels" castle where Siegfried is reputed to have slain a dragon. The former masters of the castle, the Counts of Drachenfels, had a winged, fire-spitting dragon in their coat of arms. The view from the castle tower is considered one of the most famous on the Rhine.

Along the Rhine, particularly in the narrow gorge connecting Bingen and Koblenz, which has a length of only thirty-five miles, you will have access to more castles than in any other river valley in the world. They stand like sentinels on the cliffs above river side villages, and others stand alone surrounded by vineyards.

"The German is like a willow.
No matter which way you bend him,
he will always take root again."
- Alexander Solzhenitsyn -

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Rhine River April 2014: Riquewihr - eastern France

Rhine River April 2014: Riquewihr - eastern France: Located in north-eastern  France , Riquewihr is popular tourist attraction noted for its historical  architecture . Riquewihr is also known...

Riquewihr - eastern France

Located in north-eastern France, Riquewihr is popular tourist attraction noted for its historical architecture. Riquewihr is also known for the Riesling and other great wines produced in the village. Riquewihr looks today more or less as it did in the 16th century.

Riquewihr is one of those villages straight out of a storybook, with cobblestone streets, houses made decked was pretty and undoubtedly worth the visit.
Riquewihr features traditional inns and wine cellars sprinkled among the half-timber homes.

Riquewihr served as a  wine village' in the 16th century, a trading hub for Alsatian and German wines.

1,228, Population
Highs in April around 58, Lows 37.

SOME INTERESTING SIGHTS:

Old Town Tower: Built in 1291. Buildings near or around the town today feature restaurants and wine stores.

Le Dolder ('town gate'): Twenty-five meters tall (82 and 1/4 feet) served as a 13th century defensive gate

 Sinne Fountain: Used to clean barrels and containers used to make wine. Also, used to verify the amount of wine in a barrel.

Wurtemberg Castle:  Today an Alsacian Communication Museum

Tower of Thieves: The first floor is a torture chamber featuring actual instruments

Musee Hansi: The artist Jean-Jacques Waltz (1873-1951), better known as Hansi, encouraged a revival of Alsatian patriotism during the difficult days of the German occupation following the Franco-Prussian War (1870-71). He codified distinguishing Alsatian traits through his drawings and caricatures, notably of cute children in local dress driving flocks of geese before grotesque-looking Prussian (German) soldiers, villages with half-timbered houses, and loads of storks, the unofficial emblem of Alsace. This small museum of original prints offers an interesting insight into the Alsatian mentality. 16 Rue du Général de Gaulle

The artist was imprisoned for making fun of German military and professors for a year (between wars), escaped, and fled to France.

During WW II, Jean-Jacques Waltz was pursued by the Nazis and fled to Switzerland. He was wounded and never fully recovered. The French revere him for his resistance during WWI and WW II.

Next stop on the cruise: Freiburg

Freiburg: The next stop on Rhine Cruise stands at the border triangle of Germany, Switzerland and France, the Mediterranean South of Germany. You may find some of this information about the city interesting.

Located on the western edge of the Black Forest, Freiburg has the distinction of being labeled one of the 'greenest, most 'eco-friendly' cities in Europe. Freiburg is labeled the "Jewel of the Black Forest.''

This city of approximately 230,000 is at the center of major wine-growing. It's the sunniest and warmest German city. Freiburg means 'free independent town,' or fortified town of free citizens.'' The longest cable car in Germany, 2.2 miles takes you up a nearby mountain. An unusual system of gutters runs through the center of town keeping it cooler in the summer. 

The average April temps: Highs in the 60's; lows in the 40's.

In 1520, the citizens of Freiburg decided NOT to take part in the reformation and became an important center for Catholicism in the Upper Rhine. During World War II the city was heavily bombed; the church was spared. At the conclusion of the war, the French army occupied the city until 1991. A new neighborhood was built on the French base. Many of the homes built in this neighborhood use solar power.

Until the mid-1500's, Freiburg prospered from silver mining. The city endured many types of rule - French, the Hapsburgs, the Roman Empire. Often, whoever was ruling levied a tax on ordinary citizens to pay for their armies and more extravagant life styles. Sometimes, the ordinary citizens rebelled only to be defeated by the more powerful rulers.

PLACES TO VISIT: 

Augustiner Platz -  formerly a monastery, this platz has become a social space with restaurants and bars.

Münster Platz: -  This cathedral square has a farmer's market every day of the week except Sunday.

Funicular Railway to Schlossberg Hill:  Enjoy extensive city views from Scholssberg Hill. A restaurant at the top of the his: Greiffenach Scholssel - You can have a drink or a meal with a view of Freiburg below you.

Link to Freiburg Tourism Office: www.freiburg.de

Information about Breisach, Germany - first stop on our cruise

Breisach is a town with centuries of history, much of it fortunately available for the tourist to enjoy. The town is impressive to see from the distance; the old, upper town rises up steeply from the plains of the Rhine River, with the spires of the cathedral visible from far away. 

The population of Breisach approximately 16,500

In Celtic, Breisach means "breakwater.'

The bridge over the Rhine was destroyed by Allied artillery during WW II when the allies crossed the Rhine. Eighty-five% of Breisach was destroyed.

WHAT TO DO: Badische Winzerheller eG = one of the largest wine cellars in Europe. 

Cathedral of St. Stephensmunster: See the late Gothic altar
The cathedral was damaged during WWII; however, some of the older works of art were saved including "Last Judgement" by Martin Schongauer (1400's) - worth seeing

"Europe Reaches for the Stars": A sculpture: An abstract of a female reaching for the stars. She is standing atop a bull. 1950: Breisach was the first European city to aspire to a unified Europe.

"Eckartsberg" (Visit in the morning to get the best photos). A former castle and monastery, walk through vineyards and passed old city walls to get to the top of a hill overlooking the Rhine.

Tullaturm: Site of 12 - 18th century castle. An observation tower built in 1874 provides impressive views of the Rhine.

Tourist Information Office website: You can get maps of four different Breisach walking tours. Follow the footsteps!

Tourist Office, also for the Kaiserstuhl-Tunib